Home is Where You Make It

With two weeks past, and another three to come I have been living the life of a South African. Roughly two weeks ago I (again) moved from a beachfront condominium to a township residence. Within this township I have been staying with a loving family in their three-bedroom house.

With this family I live with my ‘gogo’ or grandmother along with my beautiful sister and two very handsome brothers. Each and every one of my family members is incredibly intelligent and very hard working. Although it is quite rare for township citizens to attend tertiary academics, my two older brothers have both obtained university degrees. With their brilliant minds, one has completed his masters in law and the other, architecture. My younger sister has just begun high school… but I can already see that she will be making significant impacts in the near future.

Now that I have been living in the township for quite sometime, I have determined that life is much different than how I had been living previously. To begin, all citizens of this area live closely as they know each of their neighbors and many others of the community. Children often run free, leaving early in the day and returning late at night while parents trust that the surrounding community watches over their youngsters. I also find it comforting that when an individual is in need of money or other resources, the community lends a helping hand despite the lack of resources they themselves obtain.

Personal challenges that I have faced include the routines of everyday living. Although my house is provided running water and electricity, our house remains to have limited supplies than what I am used to having. For instance, because our home has only access to a bathtub and cold running water, I have yet to take a shower. Rather I bathe every morning as my gogo prepares me with kettle-warmed water that she then places in a red bucket for me to wash myself with. Through this living experience I have also learned to hand wash my clothing. Despite the house having electricity for lighting, a refrigerator, stove, microwave and TV, there is no washing machine. As a result I wash my items by hand and allow them to hang-dry with the remaining family’s belongings. I have also overcome the challenge of transport. In South Africa people use transport taxis called ‘Mini Buses’. These mini buses are often run-down, 9-seated, large vans. There is no apparent organization for bus stops or designated destinations, although when an individual sees a bus, they simply wave the bus over and then the bus will pick them up and bring them to wherever desired. Most of the time the buses are cramped with 12-15 people as the drive quickly through the streets, all the while playing base-loud music and nearly breaking the eardrums of each and every passenger.

Along with the routines of everyday living, I have also faced challenges of cultural norms. As I greet a variety of community members, each has their own handshake. Some perform this with 1-2 firm grasps of the hand as they reach down to the wrist then again to grasp at the palm. Other handshakes may entitle a firm grip of the palm, then a cupped hand as the opposing fingers are held, and finally to what reminds me of a ‘thumb war,’ each hand snaps their thumbs together and finally releases their hold. There are various forms of handshaking and the problem is, upon greeting, how do I know which one to perform? I still don’t know!

Surprisingly, I love living this simple life. I have grown quite used to not showering but bathing and hand washing my clothing. Although I remain timid when approaching absolutely crazy mini buses, I enjoy their transport. I also enjoy the close-knit ambiance of the community. I have actually grown so comfortable with the locals that I have joined a women’s Netball Team (similar to Basketball but less contact) who practices every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. And most of all, I have become too attached to my family as it worries me when I consider leaving them. I have grown attached to the nightly gatherings of our family and neighboring friends as we sit in our over-crowded living room and talk about everything and anything. The late nights compact of laughter, smiles, discussions and downright silliness is what I will miss most. They say that home is where you make it, and with all seriousness I can assure you that this home has been made.

“ The greatness of a nation can be judged by the way its animals are treated.” – Mahatma Gandhi

Although I am nothing close to an expert of the cultural traditions set by the native Zulu Group, I have experienced a once in a lifetime Zulu celebration. This “Royal Reed Dance Ceremony” is held annually for young Zulu women to declare their virginity. As the tradition is derived from Zulu culture, it is often difficult for outsiders to attend the event. Thankfully due to the directors of my program, my fellow students and I were graciously welcomed to the experience.

As we first arrived by car, we drove over the hilltops into the valley where the celebration was held. From the hilltops, I witnessed the distinct green grasslands that flourished as far as the eye could see. In the distance rolling hills sprawled, as they were dotted with specs of both round and block-shaped clay huts. These Zulu huts which use thatch for roofing, are scattered throughout the scenery in groups of 4-6. Between these grouped Zulu huts are even smaller specs, the free roaming cows, goats, and sheep. Although from this hilltop one item in particular had held my focus, a cluster of small white tents in the depth of the valley. Here, was held the Royal Zulu Reed Dance.

Once driving down and into the valley, we parked our car among others in order to prepare for the ceremony. As our arrival only allowed my group and I to be spectators, we observed the ceremony while absolutely transfixed.

In order to participate in the ceremony, young women dress in their traditional attire with a beaded skirt and an elongated beaded necklace. A woman may choose to walk with or without shoes as she marches topless, holding a 15’ reed towards the King’s palace. Once inside the King’s palace these organized youth march in line as they place a reed when within the King’s presence. The placement of this reed announces their virginity and declares their purity as a strong-minded, empowered woman. Once placing the reed, the young virgins then walk back to their white tents and the Zulu Group participates in a lengthy celebration with food, drinks and music.

Throughout the ceremony I had taken many pictures, although in order to do so I needed to ask for each participant’s consent. Originally I was nervous to ask for permission with fear of being rejected. Although now as I reflect on the reality of the situation, fear of rejection should have been farthest from my mind because once participants glimpsed at my camera they instantaneously greeted me with warm hugs and laughter. More interestingly, as I had wanted to take pictures of them they also wanted to take pictures with my peers and I. They would hold their phone cameras and ask us to take dozens of photos with them. During moments of posing for photos and infamous amounts of hugs, I would realize that my fellow white peers and I would be the center of attention as 40-50 girls surrounded us.

As I now I reflect on this powerful moment, my peers and I had attended the Royal Zulu Reed Ceremony with intentions of celebrating the young women and their declaration of virginity. However much to my surprise, my peers and I were the highlight for the participants. Some young women had never been acquainted with people of white skin and therefore after providing their customary hug, a young Zulu woman would then leave my peers and I while excitedly screaming, “I touched a white person”.

 

As much as I had wanted to meet them, they had wanted to learn and meet me.  Throughout this experience I felt grateful to be blessed by the presence of the Zulu people and their graciousness. The acceptance received by the Zulu culture as they had allowed my peers and I to attend the event was beyond genuine hospitality, but the degree to which they had wanted to interact with us was priceless.

The Royal Zulu Reed Dance Ceremony is incredibly beautiful with gorgeous traditional attire, the long casting reeds, and the intimate interaction between the people of Zulu heritage. Even more eye opening was the generous amount of acceptance provided to my peers and I as we come from an alternative culture. With the closing line uttered by Gandhi, who both worked and was incarcerated in South Africa due to the activism of human rights,

“ The greatness of a nation can be judged by the way its animals are treated.” – Mahatma Gandhi